Factor55 ProLink

Well its been a while since I posted any new developments on the rig since I've been out enjoying the great outdoors in it!

Before the FJCC 2012 Summit, I had ordered a Factor55 ProLink safety thimble to replace the hook on my winch. I had a couple of reasons for doing this; firstly stowing the hook on the winch was a PITA. It also scratched the crap out of the fine work Joel from Ellis Precision had done on the hawse. Finally hooks aren't exactly the safest recovery mechanism especially when using shackles. So with that in mind, I got the Factor55 kit.

Installation couldn't be easier.

1. Remove the split pin and retaining pin on the pre-existing winch hook, separating it completely from the line.



2. Grab a pair of circlip pliers and remove the circlip in the ProLink



3. With the circlip removed, the titanium pin will come out easily.



4. Install the rubber boot for the ProLink on the winch line, then attach the winch rope to the ProLink. Reinstall the titanium pin and circlip making sure the circlip goes back into the groove.



5. Pull the rubber boot back down over the ProLink, it has some guide points to align it and keep it in place.



6. Installed ready for use

Ellis Precision Coat Hooks

Another awesome product from Ellis Precision was installed this afternoon after finally arriving from Canada; machined billet coat hooks.

Like everything Joel from EP does, these are just plain awesome. I had him finish them in "stealth" the same as the shifter, transfer and hand brake bits he had done previously.

Installation couldn't be simpler:

1. Remove the OEM coat hooks, pull down on the covering scabbard, exposing the bolt. Remove the bolt using a 10mm socket.
2. On the back of the EP coat hook; install one of the supplied grub screws using a 3mm hex key. This grub screw is used as a locator.
3. Drop the machine bolt through the coat hook (best to guide it by attaching to a 5mm hex key); locate the coat hook into position making sure the grub screw aligns with the untapped hole, while screwing in the machine bolt.
4. Admire the product.

1. Pull down on the scabbard to expose the 10mm bolt head

2. OEM coat hook removed, you can see the two holes;
one tapped the other blank

3. Back of the EP coat hook; the top right hole
is tapped and takes the grub screw

4. You'll need a 3mm and 5mm hex key.

5. Grub screw installed

6. Bolted in place and ready for the Zegna ;)

Warn 9.5 XP-S Winch

Well after a long time, I finally got a winch!

Initially I had an Avenger Mako TDS 9.5, ready to go in, but unfortunately it didn't fit in the ARB bar. I was a little bummed as it received a great review from a 4x4 magazine comparison on winches. Fortunately the guys at Opposite Lock took it back and it was back to the drawing board for me...

I'd always wanted a synthetic rope winch to reduce additional front end weight, make it easier for the co-pilot to lug it up a hill and the ability to easily re-splice it in the event of a breakage. The trick was, finding a winch that was truly synthetic rope capable. Plenty of winches come with a synthetic rope option, but aren't built for the purpose; with the internal brake being in the drum and heating the rope up to damage point very easily when in operation.

While I was in my local ARB store a few months prior, the guys were drooling over the new offering from Warn; the 9.5 XP-S winch. Warns premier ‘extreme conditions’ winch, the 9.5 XP now retrofitted to support synthetic rope (hence the –S suffix). I took a look at the specs and having seen my mates XP series winches used and abused, I didn’t hesitate to say ‘you’d better order me in one of em’.

So 2 months later, the shipment from the US came in and I have a shiny new 9.5 XP-S fitted up. I was most surprised that the kit also included a wireless remote control, which does away with the wired hand remote (though still included). It’s a very small unit that is a godsend when driving and winching at the same time.
Another interesting development with these new series of winches; solenoids in the control box have been done away with. Replaced with a completely sealed contactor box; theoretically this should never fail, but time will tell.

The winch comes with a polished Warn hawse, which looks brilliant. Unfortunately it’s a standard hawse configuration and ARB bars require an ‘offset’ hawse, so it couldn’t be used. I did however order an offset hawse earlier in the year from Ellis Precision (same guys that did the handbrake, gear and transfer knobs) which really looks the part.

On order now is a Factor 55 ProLink Loaded kit, to replace the hook with a shackle point for greater security and connection flexibility.

All in all, a quality bit of kit I couldn't be happier in having and trusting my life with; as they say 'quality remains long after the price is forgotten'.

PS: if your a complete wally like me and skim read the instructions; you need to press and hold both buttons on the wireless remote for a couple of seconds before it becomes active. I went back to ARB today to claim the wireless unit was dead until my trusty sales guy, Pete let me in on the activation secret!

1. Wireless Controller

2. Contactor Box (no more solenoids)

3. Winch installed, Ellis Precision hawse visible.

4. Factor 55 ProLink shackle point.

UHF Extention Speaker

Howdy again all,

I've run into a paradox a while ago with my UHF and its internal speaker. When 4x4ing; nothing gets the blood pumping better than a good Joe Satriani solo, maybe some Steve Vai or Metallica cranked up; problem is you can barely hear your fellow 4x4ers on the radio.... Solution; add an external speaker!

Now I've been meaning to install an extention speaker for my UHF for a while now. In fact I bought the speaker unit about 2 months ago and have been to lazy (and not brave enough to go into the cold shed) to install it. Finally this evening, with a rum in hand, I braved the cold and got it done.

The unit is a GME SPK07 model as shown.

After a bit of scoping around, I found the best place to install it seemed to be in the passanger footwell under the glove box. There is a mount with two screws; I removed the foremost one and used that to mount the speaker bracket. With a bit of trimming of the spreaker bracket, it fits into the groove of the glove box mount snuggly.

After installing the speaker, it was a simple case of running the cable through a pre-existing conduit I had run, to the centre console where the UHF is.

1. GME SPK07

2. Dismantled centre console - access to the UHF radio

3. Speaker bracket installed under glove box
using pre-existing bolt

4. Speaker installed.

Roll Top Console

As part of a group buy at FJCC a while back, I got a 'Panamint' version of the Roll Top Consoles. These things look great, appear solid and in all honesty, look like they are OEM kit. Perhaps Toyota should talk to Industrial Forming?

The only trouble I had, was finding a day that was warm enough to install it, as the instructions dictate that the car interior should be >15 degrees C for installation. Given its winter here in Canberra, that's not such an easy task!

Panamint Roll Top Console installed.

Toolkit & Contents

Plenty of members at FJCC have been asking: "what do I need to carry in a toolkit". So, given I just had a new canvas carry bag made up to fit into my storage drawers for the purpose, it seemed like a good idea to give a rundown of its contents. Here's a couple of things to remember when putting together a toolkit;

1. Make sure the contents match your rig (no point carrying tools which aren't required).
2. Buy the best tools you can afford. This may seem strange for gear you may rarely use, but when you need them, you don't want them to fail!
3. Know how to use all the tools in the kit.

Kit Contents:

• 3/8 Socket Set in Metric and AF sizes
• Combination Spanner set in Metric
• Combination Spanner set in AF
• Metric Hex Keys
• AF Hex Keys
• Screwdriver set
• Hose Clamps (1 Large, 1 Small)
• Circlip Plier Combination Set
• Large Shifter
• Small Shifter
• Folding Knife
• Vice Grips
• Needle Nose Pliers
• Combination Pliers (Linesman)
• MultiGrips
• Dead Blow Hammer
• Cold Chisel (not Jimmy Barnes!)
• Pin Punch
• Wirebrush / Chipping Hammer combo tool
• 250mm Bastard File
• 2.5mm & 3.2mm Welding Rods (20mm PolyPipe capped off works great as a holder)
• Welders Glass (#10 Shade)
• QuikSteel Putty
• Rescue Tape (Self Fusing Silicone Tape)
• Gaffer Tape
• Multimeter
• LocTite 263
• Utility Hacksaw
• Wire: Electrical and Structural
• Soldering Iron & Solder
• Cable Ties
• Permanent Marker & Welders Chalk
• Tape Measure
• Inox / WD40
• Rags
• Surgical Gloves

TyreDog 1300 TPMS

I've had these on my list for a while, but never really got around to dropping the cash for them. Fortunately one of the guys over on FJCC had some he wanted to get rid of as part of a stocktake, which kinda pushed my hand a bit (thanks Daz!).

When I first opened the box I was really surprised at the size of the monitor. Measuring around 70mm x 30mm, I was expecting a lot larger but more than happy about it not taking up a heap of room.

Installation couldn't be easier; drop the batteries (supplied) into the monitor then into the sensors. They come online and beep and complain a bit until they are screwed onto the valves. I didn't bother using the locking collars, since it seems like a PITA when airing down for trail runs. Lets just hope the crackheads don't decide to steal them!

I mounted the monitor next to the Long Ranger tank gauge using the supplied suction mount. Due to the small stature of the monitor and mounting bracket, it seems like a perfect position that won't be intrusive, though time will tell.

1. TyreDog TPMS Boxed

2. Small in size, big on features ;)

3. Mounted up

Nav Light Upgrade

With the dome lights upgraded recently, I was thinking about what to do with the map / nav lights. The white light was going to be too bright for a map light, as the time your eyes take to adjust would be to annoying for night driving / navigation.



Subsequently I thought about military applications; which typically employ a red or green light to reduce glare and loss of natural night vision. With that in mind, I went searching the web for some LED light strips in either red or green. Green seemed to be pretty difficult to find, so I ended up going for red in a small form strip of 2 x 3 LEDs.


2 x 3 Red LED Strip

Both nav lights on.

Cabin with both lights on

FJCC Trasharoo

I'm always sick of carting plastic bags full rubbish from the campsite, back to civilisation. The clinking of beer bottles (amongst other things!) is enough to drive you mad. Solution? A Trasharoo Bag!

We threw the idea around over at FJCC, to not only initiate a typical group buy for Trasharoos, but also going the step further in getting them branded with the club logo. The results of the printed logo were brilliant; the bags are second to none in terms of quality and absolutely cavernous. To be honest; I've never been so keen to pack rubbish up at a campsite!

Interior Light Upgrade

Well it seems I'm going through a bit of an LED fetish phase at the moment. With the MagLite upgrade, Dually D2 reverse light, ARB Adventure Light and saving for a 40" Rigid Industries Light Bar for the roof rack; I might have to go to LED's Anonymous!
To feed my addiction this week, I decided to do what I would call one of the easiest and most valuable upgrades for the FJ; LEDs in the interior dome lights.

Very simple process really; jump on eBay and search for "48 SMD White LED Light Panel". If that's to tricky; I got mine from here: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/48-SMD-White-LED-Light-Panel-T10-Festoon-Ba9s-Dome-12V-/270965668356?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f16cffa04

Since these are from China and I couldn't be sure on the quality, at $3 a panel I just bought 4 of them. 2 for the car and 2 for the spares draw just in case.
The kits come with everything you need; the panel which has a 3M backing strip and three different festoon adapters (as seen in image 1). We'll use the spring loaded one for the FJ.

To install:

1. Pop the clear plastic cover off the dome light using a small flat bladed screwdriver.
2. Make sure the light is turned off and cool; I cooked my fingers on the incandescent the first time I did this!
3. If the incandescent is cool; take it out and put it aside in your spares draw.
4. Insert the spring loaded adapter; positive goes to the side with the tab (you'll know what I mean when you see it) or worst case grab a multimeter and check before hand.
5. Once you've got the spring loaded adapter installed (the trickiest part of the install); plug the LED panel in and test it works.
6. If all has gone well; position the wires into the space the festoon goes into, peel the backing off the sticky strip and attach it.
7. Re-install the plastic cover
8. Admire your handy work!

1. LED plate and components (ebay image)

2. OEM incandescent cab lighting

3. LED light panel installed

Maglite LED Upgrade

I realised the other day (night actually), that LED torches are the wave of the future. I've got an LED headlamp from my days in the SES and my ARB LED Adventure light I got at Xmas 2011; but I always throw my trusty old mini Maglite in my pocket while roaming around camp. This Maglite uses the old school incandecent bulb, which is marginally brighter than a few candles.

Google to the rescue; I soon found overhaul kits for Maglites to convert them to LED. Two brands stood out as the clear leaders in the field; NiteIze and TerraLux. Because I wanted the most lumens from the torch, I went for the TerraLux Extreme upgrade kit which brings the torch to 140 lumens of output.

Its a very simple process to change over to LED; simply replace the bulb with the LED one provided and change out the reflector to the one provided in the kit. The output in comparison to the standard Maglite bulb is unreal, the photos below really don't do it justice.

Standard Maglite bulb.

TerraLux LED upgrade kit

Upgraded Maglite with TerraLux LED bulb.

So if you have a Maglite that you want to give a new lease on life; I'd highly recommend getting an LED upgrade kit.

FJ Sill Plates

Got a good surprise on Saturday morning; a package in the mail. Firstly I was blown away that Aust post even worked on Saturday, secondly the contents of the package; my FJ sill plates.

A buddy over on FJCC had put a group buy together a few months back to get alloy sill plates shipped in from the US. The price was too good and I just couldn't say no.

Installation is one of the simplest I've done on anything for my FJ so far!

1. Removal of the current plastic sill plate. This is actually the most difficult part as the adhesive is pretty good. I used a razor to lift the edge enough to get a good hold, then I could just pull it away.
2. Once the plastic sill plate had been removed, the next step was to clean off the residual adhesive gum. I used a 3M preparation product I had laying around, which is ideal for the purpose. A couple of minutes using this with a soft cloth and the surface was totally clean.
3. Since it was a typical late Autumn day in Canberra (< 12 degrees) I heated the surface up with a heat gun as per the instructions that came with the new sills. Apparently the adhesive works better if the surface temp is warm.
4. With the surface now warm, remove the adhesive backing from the new sill and gently place on the clean paint work. By placing it lightly down, this gives the ability to make adjustments. Once satisfied with the location, press down firmly on the new sill piece to fix it into place.
5. Now all to do is stand back and admire your new bling!

1. Use a razor to lift the corner of the OEM sill guard.

2. Slowly pull the old OEM sill guard away, a heat gun can help.

3. Surface preparation product; perfect for removing the old adhesive residue.

4. Surface completely clean and ready for new sill plate.

5. Sill plate installed; some tasty bling

TRD Workshop Stool

Since I've had nothing new to add to the FJ of late (waiting on bits on order; BajaRack, Warn XP 9.5S winch, etc) I decided to build a new workshop stool.

Using the plans from Miller Welding I built the square frames up to spec. When it came to the legs, I thought 550mm was a little short, so I made mine 700mm. End of the day, it'll come down to what you find comfortable.

For the seat, I used some 15mm hardwood I had laying around from another project, cut it to size (330x330), then rounded the corners and edges off. Once I was happy with that, drilled in 4 x 6mm holes to attach the seat, and countersunk them.

After cleaning up the welds with a grinder I primed the steel then sprayed the frame racing red. The wooden seat was also primed then sprayed satin black.

Once the seat had a couple of coats of paint and dried appropriately, it was time to add the piece de resistance; a TRD decal I had spare. With this centred on the stool seat, I finished it by adding a couple of clear coats to protect everything.

Now for those cheeky bastards wondering "what makes it a TRD stool", the answer besides the sticker is absolutely nothing. But I guess if I get bored I can always add a brake kit and supercharge it!

Additional Switch Panel

I've had a bit of a dilemma of late; more switches to install for accessories, but no where to put them. Originally I had intended to place them on the right hand side panel next to the ignition barrel (silver trim) but on removing the trim, there isn't a great deal of depth, so it wouldn't be any good considering the depth of the Carling Rockers.

So back to the drawing board, I decided a 4 gang plate would fit perfectly in the sunken section behind the transmission. It didn't fit 100% perfectly and needed some additional cutting with a Dremel, but no huge effort required. Once I had the cutout space right, I dropped the gang plate in and epoxied it into place.

I installed three of the custom rockers I had into the gang plate and used a blanking plate for the 4th slot. I have this slot reserved for the LED light bar for the roof rack.

Here's a pretty pic of the final install:

Receiver Holder

Well I've been a bit slack of late, being over a month since I last posted!
All in all, not much new work been done on the FJ, just getting out and enjoying it. However I was sick of tripping over the array of receiver hitches lying on my garage floor, so I decided to do something about it; build a wall mounted holder for them.

Fair simple stuff, grabbed a lump of RHS that accepts the hitches; not 100% sure on the exact internal diameter (think its about 50x50); just took a hitch into my local metal shop and found a piece that fitted.
I sliced this RHS into 3 x 150mm segments, with a 90 angle on one end and a 75 degree angle on the other. The plan here was to have the RHS mount in a slightly upward angle, so the receivers couldn't fall out.

Once cut and cleaned up with an angle grinder, it was a simple case of welding the RHS to a lump of steel plate I had lying around. Approx dimensions were 450 x 200 x 5mm. I then drilled a couple of holes in the top section of the plate, sprayed with some enamel paint (Kincrome Blue) and then mounted it to a wall in the shed once the paint dried using a couple of 6 x 40mm Dynabolts.

Here's a couple of pretty pics:

Rear Storage System

Well, last weekend at the Queanbeyan 4x4 show, I picked up my rear storage core system from Offroad Systems (ORS). I had ordered them a little while ago, but rather than having them shipped, I decided to just grab them from the guys and meet them directly at the show.

First impressions was a good quality, well made product. Being made from aluminium, they were very light weight and the ORS lads had thrown in some drawer dividers and a table-top plate. I had ordered them with the drawer front plates, lock and handle kits as well as the removable drawer liners. ORS DIY systems information available here and pricelist here.

Components:

• 2 x 455x780x280 Aluminum Drawer Frames
• 2 x Lock and Handle kits
• 2 x Drawer Fronts
• 2 x Marine Carpet Drawer Liners
• 1200x2400x12mm Structural Ply
• 2m x 2m Grey Marine Carpet
• 1L Carpet Adhesive
• Incidentals; nuts / bolts / staples, etc

Installation:

1. First off; I had to mount the two cores on top of each other. Fortunately they were built with this in mind and had some captive nuts already installed ready for the task; shown in picture 2. Rather than have metal on metal, I decided to add some rubber matting as spacers between the two units as shown in picture 1.
2. Once bolted together, I took measurements of the top, sides and back of the unit. Then cut pieces of the 12mm structural ply to match. I purposely made the sides and top longer to captivate the drawer fronts when closed. The rear panel was sized to cover off the edges of the top and side plates with the view of protecting them from chipping and other damage.
3. Next I dry assembled everything to make sure I hadn't made any mistakes (fortunately everything was spot on for a change!). I then laid the panels down on the marine carpet and cut out the pieces needed, extending all edges by 150mm to allow for fold over and securing on the back of the panel.
4. Using the carpet adhesive, I applied it to the top of each panel using a "V" shaped applicator, waited the 10mins or so for it to go tacky, then applied the carpet by placing the panel down onto the carpet. Weight was then placed on each panel to make sure the carpet was secured.
5. The longest part of the process came next; securing the carpet on the back of each panel. I found the easiest way to do this was to cut the carpet diagonally with a razor to the corner of the panel, fold it over 'dry' (no adhesive) and trim away any overlap. Once this had been done to all panels, apply adhesive, wait for it to go tacky, then secure with staples using a staple gun.
6. Once all the panels had been completed and the adhesive had set (generally > 24hrs), it was time to secure them to the frame. To do this, I used M6 x 12mm stainless self tapping screws. Each side I secured with 6 of these screws, with the exception of the top panel; which I secured using countersunk M6 bolts going into captive nuts (see picture 2).
7. The final panels were the drawer fronts, which were secured with the same self tapping screws, but also 2 bolts that secure the handles, as well as 2 more bolts that secure the locking mechs. This was a fairly simple process, as the supplied front panels were pre-drilled with the locations for the locking mechs and handles.
8. As a side project, I had decided to mount my MaxAx on an outer panel of the storage unit. Being that the axe was to long to actually fit in the box, it seemed like the logical choice; as knowing my luck if I mounted it to a roof rack, the rack wouldn't be on the car when I needed it!
   To do this, I bought a couple of QuickFist clamps, which would have been more than adequate, but I also decided to engineer an axe head holder from 30x30x3mm angle iron. Once welded, and tidied up with a grinder, the steel was primed and then painted gloss black. I mounted the bracket to the drivers side panel with 4 x M5 stainless bolts. The QuickFists were mounted with M5 bolts also.
9. Finally it was time to mount the entire unit to the base board. I reused the 2 pre-existing securing locations that were holding the base board down on the drivers side. For the passenger side, I used 2 "T" nuts that pull up into the base board ply from underneath.

1. Rubber matting spacers

2. Captive nut installed; these locations are in each corner, top and bottom.

3. Frames bolted together

4. Carpet adhesive spread on panel

5. Panels finished; trial knock up.

6. Side panel fixed in place

7. Quickfists and axe head holder bracket bolted down

8. Max Ax fitted in place.

9. Storage unit installed

10. Locking mech and axe head holder

11. Bottom drawer; note the 4 spacers, these aren't fixed and can be put anywhere.
The green thing under the Woodmans Pal is the table top, just mount it sideways across the drawer.

12. Axe in place; 60mm gap running down the side, allows access to side compartments and 12v plugs.

13. Rear of storage unit in relation to the fridge base.