Components:
- BRC Competition Diff Breather Kit
- 3 x 1/8 Female Tee (#01035-02)
- 3 x 3/16 Tail 1/8 BSP Elbow (#06006-0302)
- 1 x 3/16 Barb 1/8 BSP (#06003-0302)
- 1 x 5/16 Tail 1/8 BSP Elbow (#06006-0502)
- 1 x 1/8 BSP Plug (#01064-02)(If you want to plug the unused manifold port nicely)
- Thread sealant paste
- 7mm Conduit
Part numbers provided above are from Aushose / Hydraulink. If you get jammed up or don't have a local hose place, give these guys a call in Fyshwick (02) 6280 4777 or email
service@aushose.com.au and they should be able to hook you up.
I used thread sealant paste on all my threads for this build, not because anything is under presure, but to ensure water and grit can't get into the lines. You can use teflon tape, the same as you would for hose fittings around the house, but I prefer the paste as it creates a more complete seal. I had a spare tube anyway from when I was installing my ARB compressor which had alloy thread going into stainless; not an ideal combination and certainly not a good place to use tape!
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| 1/8 BSP Plug (#01064-02) |
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| 1/8 Female Tee (#01035-02) |
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| 3/16 Tail 1/8 BSP Elbow (#06006-0302) |
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| 3/16 Barb 1/8 BSP (#06003-0302) |
Rear Diff and E-Locker T Junction; uses 2 pnuematic coupling fittings (use the ones in BRC kit) and 1 x 3/16 Barb 1/8 BSP
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| Rear Diff / E-Locker T Junction |
Transmission breather T junction; users 1 pneumatic coupling fitting (use the ones in the BRC kit) and 2 x 3/16 Tail 1/8 BSP Elbow
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| Transmission breather T junction |
Transfer case and front diff breather T junction; uses 1 pneumatic coupling fitting (use the ones in the BRC kit), 1 x 3/16 Tail 1/8 BSP Elbow and 1 x 5/16 Tail 1/8 BSP Elbow.
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| Front Diff and Transfer Case T junction |
BRC Manifold Installation
First off, bolt the manifold onto the supplied plate. Check the orientation before bolting it down, the single bolt hole should be to the left of the manifold. Once the manifold is bolted to the plate, consider trimming off the excess bolt thread with a grinder.
Once done, install the breather kit onto the engine bracket with an M6 bolt (for which the bracket is tapped) and put a secondary nut on the back of this bolt to 'lock' it in place.
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| Bolt manifold to supplied plate. |
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| Grind down the excess bolt length. |
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| Engine bracket we will be using to mount the kit |
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| Kit mounted onto bracket |
Transmission Breather Installation
Installation of the transmission breathers is the most difficult of the overall installation. To make things easier, attack it from the drivers side, reaching behind the engine block, where the transmission tunnel mates to the engine. In this space, you'll see two breather lines held in place by a plastic bracket, disconnect the bracket and drop the lines down the side of the transmission tunnel. Climb under the car and disconnect the OEM caps from the lines. I found mine had been fixed on with some glue, so I ran a knife around the rim of the cap where the rubber line touches it to break the seal. The cap should come off easily then.
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| Drop the lines down under the car to easily remove the OEM caps. |
Connect up the T Junction and the poly line to the coupling. I found running the poly line down from the top of the engine bay a help in retriving the unit and fixing it back in place.
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| Connect up the T Junction |
Fix the lines back in place using the pre-existing brackets. I also tied it back with a cable tie to ensure nothing moves. The added weight of the brass junction was my reason for the cable tie and I didn't want it banging against the firewall on rough roads.
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| Junction cable tied back in place behind the engine block |
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| Note the location of the junction. |
