This install I completed the weekend past (29th / 30th October).
Components:
- Hella Rallye 4000 Chrome Lights (1 Spread, 1 Spot); 55w HID @ 6000K
- 16 Gauge Wire (Red, Black, Blue and Green spools)
- Spade Crimp Connectors
- 7mm Split Conduit
- M4 35mm Stainless Bolts
- Terminal Block
- Heatshrink, cable ties and incidentals.
Installation:
- When I measured the size of the lights on the bar from the dimensions from Hella's website, I knew it was going to be a tight fit, so immediately on getting them unboxed I dropped them into the holes in the ARB bar and breathed a sigh of relief when they fitted perfectly!
- Rather than putting the metal base straight onto the metal bull bar, I cut 2 pieces of rubber mat slightly smaller than the base of the lights, used a gasket punch to cut a hole for the light bolt in the centre, then mounted the lights into the bar with the new rubber spacer.
- If you have an ARB bar, drop the bash plate off to get better access to the light bolt. You can do it with a ratchet and an extension, but a uni-joint in this equation makes the job so much easier and allows you to get this bolt done up nice and tight. I put a couple of drops of loctite on the threads to make sure it can't rattle loose over time on corrugated roads.
- Now I had to pick up the high beam circuit for the relay to operate on. This was a fairly simple task of unplugging one of the headlight connectors and placing a multimeter over the terminals with someone flicking the high and low beams. On my rig, the high beam was on the red wire with a white stripe; I'd hazard a guess that every Aussie FJ will be the same, but please check first!
- Pop the back off the black plastic housing which holds current terminals for the OEM light setup. A small flat blade screwdriver helps, be aware this thing is packed with white grease, so have a rag on standby! Once you get the back off the housing, use the flat blade screwdriver to lever the terminal out of the housing and clean off all the grease.
- Fire up a soldering iron; because you'll be soldering onto the current connection a decent size iron helps. I used my 80W for this job, it also helped cook off the rest of that grease! Solder your relay lead (I used blue 16G cable) to the correct connector (Red/White) and secure it around the cable with some self amalgumating tape and some small cable ties (though down the cable a little bit with the ties, you don't want to foul the ability to close the housing).
- Slide the connector back into the housing and test your lights to make sure they still work. If so, put some white lithium grease into the housing (to replace the stuff you took out) then click the back onto it and re-install.
- Put the lead wire into some new 7mm conduit (or use a conduit that has some space, I used the one for my fog light lead). Run up to the rubber grommet on the drivers side of the firewall, then push the wire though.
- Run enough of the blue wire to your switch point (mine was in the centre console) and cut it. Now run a second blue lead from your switch point, back out through the rubber grommet to the location you plan to attach the relay. I installed my relay using a pre-existing tapped hole under the bonnet hinge on the drivers side.
- From the relay, run the power lead to your fuse block and the ground to and appropriate place. My fuse block also has a negative bus, so I connected there.
- Terminate both blue wires with spade connectors and attach to your switch.
For the illumination on the switches, I cut into the line that ARB had run into my cab for the fog light switch. So when the lights are on, the rockers light up like the rest of the dash. I used a terminal block so I had a common point to leverage when adding more switches.
Next I created a common ground using the same technique in 12. Using an M5 35mm bolt (which I cut down to around 30mm) I attached this block to the side of the UHF radio in place of the thumb screw. This negative ground will be used for the connections from the rocker switches. I created a 3 tail lead out of the terminal block for this purpose (not shown but the same as the photo above). The ground was then connected to the front left bolt holding down the transmission cover.
- The Carling rockers don't fit in the holes out of the box and need a little adjustment. I used my trusty Dremel to trim off some of the plastic to make them fit, very little needs removing to get the switch to fit.
Now, run the light harness into some 13mm split conduit, attach to the lights through the grill and cable tie into place all the way back to the relay location.
- Once the dash is back together; time to admire the handy work!
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| Lights on illumination |
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Switch active; Left one is the driving lights,
right one is the UHF
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| Switch installation |
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| Fired Up |
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| Distance Shot |
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