UHF Installation

So I'm catching up on a backlog of installation documentation at the moment, starting with the installation of my UHF radio back on the 16th October, so here we go.


Components:

• GME TX3340 UHF Radio
• ZCG Scalar 6.6dBi Heavy Duty Antenna (1.2M)
• ZCG Scalar 2.1dBi Flexi Antenna (40cm)
• Custom UHF Rocker Switch
• 7mm Split Conduit
• 3M Brand Double Sided Body Molding Tape
• 2 Amp Blade Fuse/s
• Cable ties and incidentals

Installation:

1. First was the threading of the coax cable into the bar followed by the ZCG Scalar mount (the coax cable comes out the bottom of the base). Once bolted down, I threaded the coax into the 7mm split conduit for the length that would be run inside the engine bay.
2. Leave some slack on the coax cable coming out of the base and into the engine bay; this will allow the antenna to flex. If the cable is tight and the antenna needs to flex, it'll strain and possibly snap the cable, so check it before securing.
3. Run the conduit around the engine bay and cable tie to pre-existing conduit runs. If its anything like my FJ, there is heaps across the top of the firewall!
4. Run the power leads from the Aux fuse block to the rubber grommet in the firewall on the drivers side along with the coax cable. Shield this power run with some 7mm conduit as well.
5. Run the three cables up above the dash and down into the centre console, all three cables can pre-exist in the same length of conduit quite snuggly.
6. On the mounting bracket for the radio, apply the 3M mounting tape then mount the bracket to the top of the VSC unit.
7. Cut the power lead down to an appropriate length. I cut the fuse holder out as I already have a fuse installed at the fuse block. Instead I terminated this with blade clips so they could be installed into the Carling Rocker Switch.
8. Cut the coax cable for the aerial to the required length. Follow the instructions here for terminating:
   www.gme.net.au/public/pdf/brochures/pl259_instructions.pdf
9. I also used some heat shrink on the back of the aerial plug to finish it and make sure it can't short on anything.
10. Connect the power cable and aerial cable, then bolt the unit to the mounting bracket. Once installed connect the extended cable for the mic and run it behind the unit and out into the drivers foot well.
11. Connect the extended cable into the mic cable with the supplied adapter, add some 3M tape and install this in the gap behind the centre console. Cable tie the excess of the extension cable.
12. I didn't want to drill into my panel around the radio, so I epoxied the two microphone bracket pieces together so I had a solid backing, then put some more 3M tape and installed just below the rear demister button.
13. Finally, since I cut out the fuse in the power line, I needed a 2 amp blade fuse (not easily obtainable, I got a few from Jaycar Electronics) to install into my fuse block.
14. Once everything is checked, hit the power button and you have comms!

ZCG Scalar Base

Aerial mounted on bar

Conduit run inside engine bay

Base unit mounted in centre console

Mic holder mounted using 3M tape

Mic installed in holder

She's a workin! Blue light is the custom rocker switch

ARB Recovery Gear

So the local 4x4 show was on this past weekend and I couldn't help but replace some of my tired and worn recovery gear with some brand new kit. After departing with my hard earned, I'd picked up:

• 5M Drag Chain
• MicroBag (for the drag chain, didn't want to use the bucket it came in)
• Premium Recovery Kit containing:
• Snatch Strap 9M (8000kg)
• Winch Extension Strap 20M (4500kg)
• Tree Trunk Protector 3M (12000kg)
• Snatch Block (9000kg)
• Recovery Damper
• 2 x 4.75T Shackles
• Leather Gloves

Aux Power Feed

So now I have the dual battery system in place, its time to get some load running on the secondary bat. Rather than just plugging everything into the battery directly and having a mass of wires hanging off the terminals (which I hate); I decided to run a fuse block to handle the termination and load.

So the bits for this build include:
•100 Amp Manual Reset Circuit Breaker
•Baintech 6 Way Fuse Block
•1 Meter 4 Gauge "Positive Cable"
•200mm 4 Gauge "Negative Cable"
•6 x 4 Gauge Cable Lugs
•13mm Split Conduit
•Cable Ties, Heat Shrink, Self Tapping Screws

100 Amp Manual Reset Circuit Breaker (Marine Grade)

Baintech 6 Way Fuse Block
(100Amp Overall Max, 30 Amp Max per Circuit)

100Amp Breaker installed next to Aux Battery

Another view of 100Amp Breaker

4 Gauge Power Cable running to Fuse Block

6 Way Fuse Block Mounted between (relocated) steering reservoir and airbox.

Dual Battery Install

So I have all the parts, now comes the tricky (yet fun) part of installing them!

Here we go:

1. Removed the power steering reservoir. Messiest part of the whole job!

2. Installed the reservoir onto supplied relocation plate.

3. Reservoir installed into new location between brake booster and air filter.
Note the angle; it had me puzzled for a while, I thought I had the wrong kit!

4. Trial fit of battery tray

5. Battery tray bolted in along with air con bracket. Side bolts not yet installed.

6. Rubber mat fitted to the tray.

7. Cut down one of the washers so it dosn't foul the airbox.

8. Also added some rubber to prevent bracket from rubbing against the plastic airbox. (It dosn't currently, but being such a tight fit + rough roads; better safe than sorry later).

9. Grounding leads, using 2 Gauge cable.

10. 1 grounding lead attached to bracket on engine block.

11. The second ground was attached to a pre-existing bolt hole next to the radiator.

12. RedArc unit installed on top of fuse box cover.
Not my preferred location, but most appropriate given the circumstances.
Space really is a premium under the hood of an FJ!

13. Primary battery connected up to RedArc Unit.

14. 50Amp Automatic Circuit Breaker on active feed between RedArc --> Aux Bat

Dual Battery Install Parts List

So this weekend will be spent with a few coldies in the shed putting the dual battery system in the BTG.
Here is a list of the components I'm using:

• 4M AWG 4 Gauge "Positive" Wire
• 2 x 50Amp Automatic Reset Circuit Breakers
• 8 x 4 Gauge Terminal Lugs
• 1 x RedArc BCDC 1240 3 Stage Charger
• 1 x Optima "Yellow Top" D34 AGM Battery
• 1 x Offroad Downunder Battery Tray + Power Steering Res Relocation Kit
• M8 x 1.25 Stainless Bolts (fixing circuit breakers using pre-existing bolt holes)
• Double walled heat shrink
• Cable Ties and wrap
• Undisclosed amount of Hoegaarden!

Wardrobe Build Up!

I received in the post the other day a Toyota Trails Team badge from a buddy of mine in WA who had a few spares after placing an order in the states for TT kit for his FJ. So I grabbed a "Husky" brand adventure style long sleeve shirt the same colour as the badge, handed it over to my local sewing place and here's the final result:

ARB Surgery #1

Heres a couple of snaps after ARB work was completed.
Done today:

• Safari Snorkel
• Old Man Emu (OME) 2"+ Lift
• ARB Deluxe Bull Bar - Colour Coded to match silver FJ trim.

Front looks lame at the moment without driving lights, but hopefully I'll get a chance to install the Rallye 4000s on the weekend. Also really hanging out for some real rubber, unfortunately my Pro Comps are on back order for 3 weeks.....

Blank Canvas Arrives!

Finally, after 6 months of waiting for my new FJ to arrive in Aus, I took delivery today.
Really keen to get to work on her soon and start putting all the accessories in my shed onto and into it, but for the moment i'm enjoying the new car smell and the factory ride.

Bergs Blank Canvas



Wire Gauge Chart

Moving forward getting ready for the electronics to go into my new rig, I decided to put together a template for wire gauge sizing. This table was initially obtained from engineeringtoolbox.com, but I did some metric conversions to make it a little easier for us metric orientated folk!

Note; once you get over 200Amps of draw, you'll want to use 0+ size cabling. Having said that, if you are dealing with such amperage, its probably in your best interest to have a chat with an auto electrician to get some perspective. Few accessories will draw this much current, winches are one item that immediately comes to mind, and are typically wired up with the correct cabling out of the box anyhow.

Hope others find this a helpful tool.

Welcome!

Welcome to Bergs FJ Buildup Blog. I decided to create this space to document my buildup in a more structured manner, rather than random posts on the forum of my current club; FJ Cruiser Club of Australia. If you have questions or comments about my build, please join FJCC and PM me under "Bergermiester".
The intent of this blog, unsurprisingly, is to document the build up of my new 2011 Toyota FJ Cruiser. I'll endeavour to cover off the decisions and thought process that went into selecting the aftermarket componentry as well as the manner in which they are installed.